The Mumbai local train has since  come a long way and now has provision inside the train to announce the next station.  Recently I traveled by the local train  in Mumbai and I must say that I was impressed by the announcement that was made in three languages. The sound clarity is excellent, in fact it is far better than what I had heard while traveling by the metro  in France.

Traveling by local trains in Mumbai is an experience in itself. If one is not used to traveling by these trains, especially during the peak time, it would be worthwhile to get a little practice traveling by the locals  (as they are called ) during the non-peak time.

This is a scene inside a local train during the non-peak hours. It is common practice for four people to occupy the seat meant for three, what they usually call as “a little bit of adjustment”  Those who are not fortunate enough to get a seat will be dangling on those metal straps hoping  that someone would  alight  at the next station. It is common to find the passengers preoccupied with their own thoughts. Yet others engage in fruitful activities, like some working ladies bring their bunch of Fenugreek  (Methi leaves) and neatly pluck out the leaves. By the time they reach home, it is ready to be washed and cooked. Talk about time management!!

Alighting at your destination is tricky. First of all, you should know the number of stations you have to cross before you reach your destination. It would also make things easier if you know which side your platform is likely to be. Usually the trains take the same track on a daily basis. Hence the regular commuters are aware of which side to get off. The not so regular commuters just need to ask when in doubt, and they will be guided in the right direction with a nod or simply by a pointed finger.  Then there are the fast trains and the slow trains. Fast trains are preferred if traveling long distance. One golden rule is  do not stand near the door if you don’t want to alight. You will be jostled and pushed around and before you know it you will be standing on the platform, much before your destination  wondering “how did I get here?”

Some people are averse to traveling in a crowd. But don’t think that by traveling in first class you can eliminate the crowd. It’s the same story everywhere. The only difference is that you will find many of the  first class passengers  briefcase in hand ,sporting a tie and a  stiff upper lip. Yes, you will notice that marked difference. The ones in the second class are more helpful, friendly and smiling.

Vendors in the train are a nuisance or a source of amusement, depending upon how you look at them. I always found it interesting to observe them. Their art of salesmanship, their choice of words to sell a product is worth noting.  Entrepreneurship at its best.

The Mumbai local travelers always talk in terms of decimals. “The 11.16 CST Fast” means the fast train which leaves at 11:16 hrs for Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus (which was earlier known as Victoria Terminus)

If you ask for an address in Mumbai you will most likely hear something like Dadar East or Malad West. This is because the railway line runs North South (in general) so either side of a station becomes East and West.  An easy way to follow directions.

I don’t think any other city in the world  has trains running at an interval of 2.5 minutes (at peak times). Hats off to their efficiency.

Chhaang: the nectar of Gods
Darjeeling, Sikkim and Lauaul & Spiti

In some parts of Indian Himalaya, it’s sold like tea but not in a restaurant or roadside food stall. Rather, in a house. You can buy this warm white beverage by glass for less than Rs 10 (20 cents). It has a very subtle taste of rice and goes down the throat smoothly. To feel the buzz you need to have it in large quantity as it is not really intoxicating. The alcohol content is low.

The locals encourage you to drink it in the cold weather, as the beer keeps you warm and cures common ailments caused due to cold. After two glasses, you can feel the warmth in the body. And the legend has it, the snowman, Yeti, raids empty houses looking for chhaang. Locals say it is the snowman’s favorite beverage.

In North-eastern areas of Sikkim and Darjeeling, it is also referred as tongba.

Kinnauri Ghanti – It does ring a bell
Kinnaur

Transparent like vodka, smells of apple, and the locals just need a reason to gulp it. They drink it because of good weather and bad; in good moods and bad; on busy and boring days – practically every day.

Made from apple and apricot, there is no standard price for the beverage. Just ask the hotel staff to fetch it for you. He may quote you anywhere from Rs 100 ($2) to Rs 150 ($3) for a bottle. When he comes back, you will have this liquor refilled in a drinking water bottle.

The locals prefer to mix it with water. Depending on your taste, you can try it with a fizzy drink (Sprite or 7 Up).

Royal Salute: Spiced Liquors of Rajasthan
Rajasthan

Only recently, commoners are able to taste the heritage liqueurs of Rajasthan that were a staple of Maharajas and royal families. The recipes of these spiced liquors are close-guarded secrets of the families and the beverages get their names from the families.

The state government has started selling these in miniature bottles of 90 ml each, costing up to Rs 140 ($3) recently. To give you few examples, the brand Kesar Kasturi contains 21 spices and Royal Chandrahas is made after mixing 76 different spices.

Most families made these beverages depending on their climatic conditions of their area. While Kesar Kasturi and Royal Chandrahas are winter drinks, Royal Saunf is a refreshing summer beverage. Preesently, there are four brands for summer, four for winter and four premium ones.

And if you are wondering about the spices used, some of them can get you excited, literally. These drinks contain spices ranging from dry fruits, clarified butter, sandalwood, to natural aphrodisiacs like safed musli.

Fenny: The Spirit of Laid-backs
Goa

Those who know existence of Goa probably knows the existence of the region’s popular drink fenny (or feni). There are two versions of the liquor – one made from cashew apple and the other from coconut. In Goa’s restaurants, you will find this to be the cheapest liquor on the menu. It is colorless and has a sharp taste, and the locals drink it in soda or lemonade. You can enjoy fenny just like you would have vodka.

Frank Simoes, in his book Frank Simoes’ Goa says: “For feni is to the Goan life what the sky is to a bird, a medium of limitless wonder and potential.” The liquor has high nutritional value, too, with presence of sugars, sodium, potassium, iron and several vitamins et al”.

Bhang Ki Thandai: The Ancient Drink Dedicated to God
Government authorized shops in Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.
Unofficially available in Mathura, Agra and Varanasi

The most potent of all the drinks mentioned on this page, this beverage is prepared from mixing cannabis with milk and spices. This drink is also called as Bang ki lassi and can be bought for less than Rs 20 (40 cents). In Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, there are government authorized sellers. It has the same effect as any preparation of cannabis.

In northern Indian cities such as Mathura, Agra and Varanasi, you will find people openly consuming it as a religious offering. In these cities, locals also drink it to work their appetite or to induce a good night sleep.

Hadia: The Tribal Art
Bihar, Orissa, Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, and Madhya Pradesh

This rice beer is available in states that have bigger tribal population, who used it as refreshing drink in the summer. To ferment the beer, tribals use ranu tablets, which is a mixture of herbs. The recipe and process of making hadia differs from village-to-village, as the procedure is inherited from earlier generation. If you are lucky to buy the drink, which is usually prepared at home and consumed, the cost will be Rs 5 – 10 (10-20 cents). The alcohol content is low just like chhaang.

Kallu: From the Wish-Fulfilling Divine Tree
Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra and Kerala

Think about tasting it only if you are really adventurous and don’t mind people looking down on you. Made from palm tree (also known as palm wine and toddy), economically weaker population of the country drinks this as they cannot afford branded liquors. And so, it is labeled as a drink for alcoholics. Some states, like Tamil Nadu, have banned this and can be bought through moonshine distilleries.

Toddy has alcohol content of 8% but after distillation, the alcohol content rises over 70 per cent. The distilled today is also known as arrack in many countries. Arrack is banned in India.

Slightly more clouded than coconut water, it tastes extremely sour, like vinegar. On the first sip, you will feel a burning sensation in the throat as it passes the neck. And beware; if you are sitting in a room after drinking Kallu, everyone will be aware of the drinking adventure.

Zutho: Nagas’ sake
Nagaland

Another rice beer, it is made of an elaborate fermentation process and typical to the state of Nagaland. It has a fruity aroma but a sweet-sour taste. This is the only frothy beer compared to chhaang and hadia. The locals serve it with roasted millet, soya bean and red chili.

Old Monk: A 58-year-old sensation
Pan India

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that many youngsters in the country prefer old monk to the finest scotches in the world. It is a cult among tipplers and third largest selling rum globally. In many fine five star parties in India, it is the only Indian drink that resides next to top brands from around the world.

The loyalist are all part of Facebook group called The Council of Old Monk Rum Addicted Drinkers and Eccentrics or COMRADE

Classified as dark rum, it has a distinct vanilla flavor. It is also one of the cheapest branded liquor available. Want to try it like a typical Indian tippler? Have it in water or with Thumbs Up, a fizzy cola brand now marketed by Coca Cola.

When in India, an indigenous drink is always at an arm’s distance.

Karnataka Hoysaleshwara temple at belur

One of the freedoms of Hinduism is that a temple is not a necessary part of proper worship. So, when people build, design or renovate a temple, it is out of their love and passion rather than pure religious obligation. So, Hindu temple architecture will usually reflect that person’s beliefs and their love of their faith. And they are attended by people on special occasions for celebrations. Hindu temples therefore usually are purely upbeat and positive in their design and construction. They are more expressions of love and devotion than anything else.

In fact, the original Hindus of record worshiped fire, air, and earth. It is that minimalist, portable and transformative notion that has helped to give the faith its longevity. Once it was necessary to bring the gatherings inside, people sought out the most beautiful locales in the land to construct their shared shelter. The original Hindu temples were simple buildings found on hilltops, beaches and oases. They were found near the only trees or shade in the desert and at points out of reach of the sea but still close enough to enjoy its cooling properties.  They were practically temporary or transitional, made out of necessity with clay or scavenged timber. Bricks and formal, permanent buildings came many years later.

It was mainly among the common artisan caste, or Vishwakarma(Hindu Architect), developed the first Hindu temple architecture. There were several shapes but most had about 6 common aspects. The garbha graha (literally “womb-chamber”) is the main section for any idols and the inner sanctum of the temple. The temple hall is most prevalent in larger temples, for a congregation. This is also a place for ritual dance and is painted with the most locally prominent gods and goddesses. When possible there was also a reservoir made or dug on the premises and a walkway around the grounds that devotees would walk as a sign of respect to the deities.

The entry porch would be equipped with a bell to signify visitors and a semi-formal entry chamber which surrounded the garbha graha, which was then topped by a tower called a shikara. Two styles of shikara dominated the early Hindu temple architecture. There was the Nagara style in northern India, distinguished by its curved, hive shape. And then the southern Indian craftsman created a collection of towers more angular, like pyramids, atop the garbha graha called the Dravida. These were the norm at the turn of the first century.

In the century that followed, many towns combined the two original types of Hindu temple architecture into a style known as the Vesara that was most popular in the middle and Northern territories. Vesara temples can still be seen in Southeast Asia and the oldest temples in India. These three styles became doctrine and appear in texts dating back to the 400-600 A.D.

Over time, the styles took on a flavor of their own, reflecting the different climates that Hinduism spread to and the local artisans gave their own take on the two original styles and molded them with the region’s most favored gods and goddesses. The Pallava style developed next, influenced by the Mediterranean. The temples were carved out of stone and became more ornate with the stone and more permanent structure allowing for more idols and statues to be included in the inner areas of the temples. The Colas (1200-1300 A.D.) followed and made the statues and idols even more elaborate, adding more chambers as special worship rooms for different gods.

Billeshwara temple from The period of kalyani chaukyas

From there, Hinduism spread to Southeast Asia and covered thousands of tribes, people and languages among many countries with governments of different tolerance levels. The regions began to really make their Hindu temple architecture their own. It reflected the beliefs and values of the locality and the elaborate nature depended on what the government allowed. What remained cohesive were the basic rooms and shapes. To this day, Hindu temple architecture will always have the six main items and a regional personality all its own that still remains true to the original fire worshiping beliefs and tenants of the Vedic age and the formation of the faith.

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  Kanchipuram Ekambaranathar temple pillars
  Kanchipuram ekambaranathar Temple pillars.

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  Kanchipuram Ekambaranathar Temple inside
  Kanchipuram Ekambaranathar Temple inside view

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  Kanchipuram Ekambaranathar Temple outside
  Kanchipuram Ekambaranathar Temple outside view

Above: A vendor fries baida roti after stuffing it
Bottom Left: A stall preparing grilled kebabs
Bottom Right: Goat brains kept to make bheja fry

This is one of Mumbai’s unsung street foods that draw meat-loving patrons from all parts of the city to the Muslim-dominated area of Muhammad Ali Road.

If you have a cast iron stomach and love for meat, the options for gastronomical adventures in this part of the city are copious.

There are few things that one needs to get used to before hitting these streets. The first is the idea of scrumptious meal by the locals. Usually discarded parts of meat such as brain, tongue and intestine are among the fast moving items at food stalls here.

The other thing that you need to accommodate is the standard of hygiene. As the food prepared using traditional methods of cooking, cooks use their hands at every stage – from marinating the meat to adding spices while cooking.

Kebabs (Tangdi Kebab, Seekh Kebab, Kaleji Kebab and Gurda Kebab)
When you visit these food stalls, the first thing that meets the eye are orange, brown and red color meat hanging on skewers right above the charcoal grill, emitting thick white smoke. These are marinated meat made of different body parts including liver (Kaleji), kidney (Gurda) and legs (Tangdi). Seekh Kebab is made of minced chevon. These are best enjoyed with a bread called ‘pav’ served with it.

Keema (minced chevon)
The meat is minced and prepared on a griddle with onions, tomatoes, peas, garlic, chilies and variety of spices. This preparation takes many forms at different vendor. Some might add egg to it.  The dish is so popular that it has found its way into menu of restaurants in five star hotels.

Baida Roti (eggroll)
In the simplest version, an omelet is placed on flatbread (roti) and rolled. The bread is then fried. But there are variations to suit every taste bud. You can have this stuffed with keema or chicken, or any other meat available.

Nihari Nalli
A spicy gravy dish, with generous amount of red chili pepper, is made from goat legs. It is supposed to be slowly cooked for about six to eight hours so that the meat around the leg bone comes of easily. These days, cooks use pressure cookers to get the desired result. The ‘nalli’ in the name signifies the bone marrow that is served in it. Some even add the tongue to the dish.

If you like it, don’t overeat. Nihari contains high amount of gelatin that makes one feel stuffed. Usually, this is served with ‘naan’, another version of Indian flatbread.

Chicken
Mumbai’s non-vegetarian street food is not just about chevon. A wide range of popular chicken dishes are also available in these stalls including chicken tikka, chicken leg, chicken breast, chicken rolls and chicken kebabs.

If you want to experiment more or scared of Delhi belly, there are several restaurants that serve all these items and more.

Bademiya
If you are in south of Mumbai, close to Gateway of India, just ask anyone for this place. This is a legendary food stall that starts in the evening and serves food until early morning. According to an article in Outlook Magazine,  Hillary Clinton wanted to sample Bade Miya’s kebabs on her India visit but her security overruled it.

The menu is as short as a visiting card comprising of mere 40 items categorized in four sections – Chicken, Regular, Special and Vegetarian. Other than its succulent kebabs, the food that made the eatery famous is baida roti. A hearty meal for two here will cost you less than $8

Britannia & Co.
No list of Mumbai’s best restaurants is complete without the mention of this place. Founded in 1923, the restaurant is popular among oldies as well as generation next. The most talked about item on its menu is the signature Berry Pulao, a rice dish with either chicken or chevon and tart barberries imported from Iran. According to Time magazine, this item is an improvised version of Iranian dish Zereshk Polow to suit Indian taste buds.

The list of food that you must try here is long. Do try sali boti (mutton in gravy) and dhansak (chicken or mutton in a lentil gravy), akuri (similar to scrambled egg but with an Indian twist) and patra ni machhi (steamed fish wrapped in banana leaf). None of the item exceeds $4.

You can walk to this restaurant from Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (erstwhile Victorial Terminus) railway station. Any shopkeeper will direct you to it. It is located at Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, 16 Ballard Estate, Ballard Estate, Fort.

Alibag is famed for its beaches… and there are many! The Kihim beach is among the most popular ones, the sand seemingly stretching forever, and is packed during the tourist season.

Akshi and Nagaon are known for the trees, which form a natural boundary for the beach.

Thal is a fishing village, best for observing the fishermen returning home with the catch of the day, and of course, if you like fresh fish, getting the best possible deal for your lunch! Apart from these are the various other beaches which are less known than these famous ones, and therefore less crowded!

I love being at the beach early in the morning, watching the sunrise, and enjoying the relative privacy before the throng of tourists arrive. This being the western coast of India, we do not have the pleasure of watching the sun rise over the sea, but watching the red orb rise behind the trees is a wonderful experience too! Or of course, you can stay and watch the sun set instead, with a thousand other tourists for company!

High tide is of course, the best time to enjoy water sports, and these days, there are many available. However, low tide is a wonderful time to explore and enjoy the sight of the sand rippling with life underneath! We have seen numerous starfish and hermit crabs here, and have collected shells and conches to last us a lifetime!
The forts are what connect Alibag to history. This was once a Portuguese stronghold. Later the Marathas established their presence here, and the coastline is dotted with forts!

The Khanderi and Undheri forts are only accessible by boat, and the only way to get there is to persuade one of the fishermen at Thal to take you there! (After getting permission from the fort authority on the beach, of course!)

The fort at Revdanda is in ruins, but the Kulaba fort at Alibag is visited by one and all. This fort, built by the Maratha ruler, Shivaji, is located just off the main beach at Alibag, and when the tide is low, you can simply walk across to the fort! Earlier, the fort used to be off limits at high tide, but these days, boats are available, and you can get a taste of adventure as the boat rides the waves too! Not much remains of Kulaba fort today, except a couple of temples inside and a few cannons left behind. It is still however, an interesting place to visit, if for nothing else than the sight which greets us right at the top – of the Arabian Sea stretching in all directions!

The Korlai fort is another interesting one – built by the Portuguese. Its name is in itself interesting. The world Korlai either comes from the word ‘curlew’, the birds which migrate here in winter, or from ‘creole’, for this is a village with Indo-Portuguese ancestors, who speak a unique dialect of Portuguese mixed with Marathi! The fort is in ruins, but you can still see remnants of the rain water harvesting system used by them more than 600 years back! Today, Korlai fort is known for its lighthouse, which was built post Independence. Visitors are allowed to go up the lighthouse for a fee, and the view from up there is simply too stunning for words! I barely heard what the attendant was saying about the working of the lighthouse! I was so busy clicking pictures!

Alibag has changed hands many times – from the Portuguese to the Marathas, back into the hands of the Portuguese – till the British took over. But even before all this happened, Israelis had arrived at Alibag. In fact, the name Alibag, is believed to mean – the gardens of Ali – after a rich Bene Israelite who owned vast plantations here. The small town thus has its fair share of Churches, temples, mosques, and even a synagogue. I have yet to visit the churches or the synagogue, but the temples here are peaceful and calm, unlike temples usually are. Moreover, the temples here are located atop hillocks and thus isolated from the hustle and bustle of the town.

Alibag is the perfect place to head out for a holiday! It is a great place to relax and unwind, and also to discover and explore interesting places. No wonder once people visit Alibag, they seem to return there… again… and again…………….and again!

Getting there
The best way to reach Alibag is to take a Catamaran from the Gateway of India in Mumbai. There are 3 catamaran operators – Ajanta (budget), Maldar, and PNP. The last 2 offer AC cabins for those who wish to travel comfortably, but traveling on the open upper deck is a much better experience! These catamarans are available every half an hour, both ways. However, it is advisable to make bookings at least a day in advance especially during weekends or holidays.
The boat ride takes about 45 minutes, and we are dropped at Mandwa, from where a free bus takes us into Alibag. There are also plenty of autos as well as share-autos available for hire.

Accommodation
Alibag has few luxury resorts. However, there are plenty of home stays. A simple Google search throws up thousands of results and all you have to do is call and confirm. Most are reasonably priced, and usually include food, either veg or non-veg. Make sure you do try out the home cooked food! That is what makes a trip to Alibag memorable!

Photo from Flickr

Oriya cuisine is popular in the state of Orissa; rice and vegetable curry is popular in this region. The curry is prepared with mild spices and little oil. Oriya cuisine has jaggery, coconut, and ghee in their food preparation.

The state of Bihar, home of Lord Buddha, has food similar to other nearby states. During the days of Buddha, rice is the staple food cooked with milk and honey. The Brahmins in Mithila cook their vegetarian food in strict accordance with their ancient religious beliefs. Split rice with curd is the popular dish for the people live in Mithila.

Several small states like Assam, Manipur, Mehalaya, Mizoram, Nagland, Sikkam, Tripura, and Arunachal Pradesh are in the east side of India. Each state has its own food culture and tradition that are blended from other food traditions in India.

In Assam, tekeli pithas is a popular food which is similar to South Indian idlis but made with grated coconut, jaggery and sesame inside it. A Naga kitchen is popular for Naga pork thali. Here the thali consists of rice, boiled vegetables, meat, dal, potato gravy, lemon, and explosive varieties of chutney.

Popular dishes of Manipuri cuisines are iromba (dish prepared with boiled vegetables, fermented fish and chilly), champhut (boiled vegetables), and hawai (dal). Vegetables are an important part of their food preparation. Singju and Manipuri salad prepared with cut vegetables, roasted peas, and grounded sesame is another popular Manipuri food.

In Meghalaya, rice and pork are the staple foods. Dishes like jadoh (made with rice, pork, ginger, turmeric, and onions), doh khleh (salad made with pork), doh iong (made with pork and black sesame curry) are popular local delicacies in Meghalaya. The tribal communities in Meghalaya have their own food tradition and culture that are spread all over Meghalaya. The Khasi tribe’s food jadoh is popular throughout Meghalaya.

Non-vegetarian food is the popular food in Mizoram; kitchens of Mizoram have rice with meat and vegetables served on the side. Everyday meals consist of vegetarian food and meat is cooked on weekends and on festive seasons. One of the most demanded delicacies of this state is vawksa rep (smoked pork) cooked with bamboo shoots on an open fire with herbs, giving a unique smoky taste to it. Another popular Mizoram dish is bai (vegetables stew cooked with various vegetables and herbs).

People in Nagland, referred to as Naga tribes, use chillies and spices in their daily cooking. Non-vegetarian food is popular in Naga cuisine. Generally they do not waste any part of the animal; skins and intestines are considered to be their favorite parts of animals in their cooking. Some of the delicacies are beef and pork pickles made with one of the spiciest chillies in the world called Raja Mircha. Pork cooked with bamboo shoot, smoked, fermented, dried meat, fish, and smoked eel are some of common food cooked in Naga’s kitchens.

The state of Sikkim is the home of three major groups of people,-the Nepalese, the Lepchas, and the Bhutias. Each group has contributed its own food culture and tradition to Sikkim. Momos (made with flour and water dough) is popular in this region; it is a food that originated from Tibet and Nepal. Another popular dish is thukpa (noodle soup with vegetables). Chhurpi ko achar is a local pickle made with dried fish and herbs, and is eaten with rice; it is a must have delicacy for non-vegetarian food lovers. Sikkim, due to its local proximity with Himalayas, is blessed with green vegetation, exotic plants, trees, and herbs. Using green plants Naga tribes skillfully create several mouth-watering delicacies that are hallmark of this state. Ningro (alpine fiddlehead ferns) cooked with cottage cheese and gundruk leaves of mustard oil plant (dried in sun and cooked with onions and tomatoes) are mouthwatering vegetarian treats for veggie lovers.

Tripura is one of the smallest states in India which is in close proximity to Bangladesh and the Indian states of Assam and Mizoram, so it inherited the food culture from these places. Rice and fish are the staple foods for the people in Tripura. The tribal community of Tripura cooks various non-vegetarian foods that include chicken, beef, pork, crab, fish, and turtle. Godhak (made with dry fish, vegetables, and chilly), and bangoi (made with pork) are popular Tripura cuisine that are taken with rice.

Arunachal Pradesh food and culture is greatly influenced by the tribal people living in this region. Generally the tribal cuisine in this region does not use oil or other generic spices used in other regions of India. Due to its close proximity with Himalayas, people use exotic nutritional herbs that are not available in other parts of India. Fermented bamboo shoots, green vegetables, and herbs are the main ingredients in their food preparation. For non-vegetarian cooking they use pork, chicken, beef, fish, insects, and other wild animals.

Rice is the staple food in Arunachal Pradesh and they cook it either in a pot or in bamboo tubes. The bamboo tubes are filled with rice and water and cooked using steam. Once it is cooked the rice is removed from the bamboo tubes and served on big leaves. Cooking the rice in bamboo tubes is the local tradition in this region. Bamboo tubes are also used for other types of cooking as well. Some of the other popular food in this tribal region are shya phrum rimom (made from meat, paneer, and green algae), putang (made with buckwheat), and kakun (made with roasted maize). Tribal people in Arunachal Pradesh also drink locally made alcoholic beverages like themsing (made from barley or finger millet ) and rakshi (made from barley, rice, millet, or maize).

Most of the states in East India are home to tribal people who live close to nature. Many of their food traditions are unique and are not seen in other parts of India. But they do blend other Indian food cultures in their food preparation giving unique food habits.

Like most other Ayurvedic diet principles, Ghee treads off the beaten path! Ghee has been berated by the contemporary nutrition gurus due to its high saturated fat content.  However, Ayurveda has placed Ghee at the Pinnacle of healthy diet. Acharya Charaka has proclaimed Ghee made from Cow’s milk as the superior most unctuous substance (others being oils, fat and marrow). It has been used for facilitating detoxification in Ayurvedic Panchakarma (Five cleansing/detoxification therapies). Ghee has been prominently used for countless Ayurvedic classical preparations for the core therapy of diseases ranging from fever, skin diseases; joint disorders to various psychological disorders and rejuvenation therapies (Rasayana Chikitsa). When taken in moderation (10% of total daily calories i.e. not more than 2 tbs. /day), it does not increase serum cholesterol and other risk factors for cardiovascular disease.¹

Ghee has a high smoke point as compared to other cooking oils. It enriches the flavor of food and also makes it healthy. Ghee synergizes the medicinal qualities of other herbs and even food. The nutrients in food, especially fat soluble vitamins like vitamin A, D E and K are better absorbed in the presence of healthy fats like Ghee.

Ghee pacifies Vata, Pitta dosha and is an ideal for individuals and disease conditions dominant in these two doshas. When taken in moderation it helps in nourishing Kapha and Meda (fatty tissues). However, excess Ghee consumption can overtly increase Kapha and Meda which may lead to imbalance and diseases. Hence individuals with Kapha dominant body type; those who are over-weight or obese should consume Ghee in moderation. Also, exercise is a must for people who consume Ghee on daily basis, to keep its Kapha and Meda increasing qualities under check.

For gastronomic reasons or as a health-conscious decision; Ghee is a ‘must-have’ ingredient in your kitchen. Here are ten reasons why -

1. Boosts Digestion: Drizzling 1-2 tsp. Ghee over food, (soups, salads, rice, lentils, daals, roti, naan, pita breads etc.) helps in stimulating appetite and digestion. It is also improves healing of gastric or peptic ulcers, relieves hyperacidity and acid reflux (using excess Ghee can induce acid reflux hence use in moderation).
2. Enhances Strength and Vitality: Ghee enhances Ojas- the quintessence of purest and healthiest body tissues that sustains our health, strength, immune system, vitality and life. Ghee and Ojas have strikingly similar qualities. Metaphorically, the way Ojas is the purest essence of our tissues; Ghee is the essence of milk!
3. Laxative: Ghee is a potent laxative. 1-2 tsp. Ghee with a cup of warm milk taken at bedtime helps in relieving constipation and soothes nerves.
4. Nasal massage: Dipping our little finger in Ghee and gently applying it to the inner surface of our nostrils, once or twice a day (best done at bedtime or early morning) helps in reducing headaches, nasal allergies, nose-bleeds and strengthens eyesight.
5. Brain Tonic: Ghee rejuvenates and promotes intellect, memory and concentration in children as well as adults. Using Ghee in cooking, instilling Ghee into nasal passages (errhine therapy or Nasya) or using Ghee as an adjuvant with Ayurvedic nootopric (Medhya) herbs like Brahmi, Mandookparni, Yashtimadhu, Shankhapushpi, Guduchi etc. helps in improving memory, concentration and allows intellect to function to its best abilities.
6. Chapped lips and Mouth Ulcers: Massaging lips with Ghee helps in soothing dry chapped lips. Also, applying Ghee over mouth and tongue ulcers helps in reducing pain and promotes healing.
7. Burn healing: Ghee is the best treatment for burns caused by heat, chemicals or electricity. Apply Ghee to the affected area to reduce pain, reduce blistering; promote healing and to prevent scarring. Ghee is also good for sunburns. Applying Ghee to sunburnt skin helps in reducing pain and enhances skin repair.
8. Piles and Fissures: Apply Ghee for relieving pain and burning sensation associated with anal fissures and piles. Also, Ghee taken internally helps in softening stools and relieving constipation- one of the chief causes for piles and fissures.
9. Ghee Massage: Ghee is excellent for massage. Body and face massage with Ghee is especially beneficial for those with dry and sensitive skin. It moisturizes the skin, helps in slowing down premature aging and improves complexion.
10.  Anticancer Properties: Ghee has special kind of fats like the conjugated linoleic acids a.k.a. CLA, which prevents cancers like malignant melanoma, breast and colorectal cancers.²

Put away some Ghee in a clean and dry glass container with a secure lid and allow it to age. The medicinal properties of Ghee are enhanced with aging. Ghee that has aged 10 year, 100 years has tremendous healing potential. Although this Ghee cannot be used for cooking, it is useful in number of health conditions ranging from epilepsy to uterine pain. It is also a powerful antidote to poisons. Older the Ghee, better it is!

Reference:

1. Matam Vijaya Kumar, Kari Sambaiah, Belur R Lokesh, Effect of dietary Ghee—the anhydrous milk fat, on blood and liver lipids in rats, The Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, Volume 10, Issue 2 ;96-104, February 1999
2. Peter W. Parodi, Cows’ Milk Fat Components as Potential Anticarcinogenic Agents, J. Nutr. vol. 127 no. 6 1055-1060, June 1997

Goa, probably, has the maximum number of touts after popular religious places in India. The only difference: in the fun capital they sell vices and in the latter a conscious to keep away from them.

From the moment I arrived in Goa, there was always someone promising a cheaper room, transport, tour packages and foreigners’ company. No matter how hard a person tries to ignore, one always ends up loathing these brokers of vices.

As I went for stroll one day, down the road running parallel to the Calangute-Baga beach, teenagers started pestering me to buy tickets for “disco”. The bunch of tickets they held were bright red, to suit the passion on sale.

“Sir, meet girls from different countries at this disco,” shouted one. Another tried to tempt with “beautiful Indian girls from any region of your choice”. I walked pass them looking straight, displaying lack of interest. A two-wheeler halted next to me.

“Sir?”

I turned around and saw a man in early forties, smiling at me. He had a look of a typical shrewd shopkeeper, who says a higher price for an item expecting the customer to get into the bargaining game.

“May I drop you somewhere?” he asked.

“I am just walking”

“You should stroll on the beach at the end of the road. There are the popular shacks and that’s where a lot of tourists hang around. Hop on and I will drop you”.

I got on to his two-wheeler with caution.

He started chatting. After the usual ‘where are you from’, ‘what you doing here’ and ‘are you alone’, he asked me if I had been to a disco. When I said a “no”, he started convincing me to visit one. He insisted that I go with him to see it once. If I don’t like it, I can opt out. He will drop me back.

The sun had moved to brighten the other parts of the world leaving this one in the daily darkness. He started riding through the small curvy roads lined with coconut trees. Took a left and then a right turn.We were far from the beach and the main artery that connects Baga to Calangute Beach. If he takes another turn, it would be time to get down, I told myself.

He halted in front of a two-story structure. Pointed towards the building: “You are about to have the time of your life,” he said rubbing both his palms with a corny smile.

When I hesitated, he started convincing me.

“Just Rs 800 ($16) for entry and you get three free drinks and a chance to meet attractive girls”

I declined.

He thought I was playing hardball because of the entry fee. Asking me to wait, he went to talk to the manager for a discount.

Just outside the building was a small cabin. A well-built dark man in early his early thirties sat with the red tickets. He seemed like a bouncer-cum-manager. He sat expressionless but had an aggressive pair of eyes that waited to subdue the carousing visitors.

While the middleman, who got me to the so-called disco, spoke to the manager, groups of men started pouring in. All of them heavily drunk. Some fighting among themselves and some laughing on the comment their pals passed. There was a lot of convincing and persuasion going among the groups. “While in Goa, we have to do this. What stories are you going to share when we go back? You might be happy checking out women from a distance; I am not,” said one of the recent arrivals to his friends, taking a deep drag from his cigarette.

My guide to the disco culture came back with a new offer: pay Rs 500 ($10) and get one free drink. He made it sound like an offer never been made to anyone else in the past.

I was already getting curious about the disco culture. The entire scene playing outside the disco had transformed me back to Mumbai. It looked like a typical night right next to a Mumbai’s dance bar. I wanted to check if it’s the same inside.

Mumbai’s dance bars could be a great tourist attraction, if they take the skin trade out of it, a thought had passed me once. In Goa, it seemed the idea had taken shape and I wanted to see how. They had organized tickets as if it is a special show. Bollywood music came through the door every time it opened and closed. The middleman also mentioned absence the of skin trade. The visitor could only buy girls drinks and dance with them.

“I will pay if you let have a glimpse inside.”

“This is not allowed.”

“Will you check?”

He checked and was declined. He came up with another offer that the manager had especially made me as he thought I was unlike other usual visitors – an entry fee of Rs 300 ($6) but no free drinks.

I was confused if I should go in. This was not really my idea of fun and I wasn’t sure if there’s a need to explore the disco culture of Goa. Knowing that I would not be allowed to look inside, I got adamant about it. It ended in a stalemate.

It was time he drops me back but he asked me to wait for five minutes. He had to get another person to the disco and hurriedly went off. I waited for 15 minutes and started walking towards my hotel. About half an hour later, close to my hotel, I saw him standing in a group, convincing people to visit a disco. He looked at me and grinned. “Where did you disappear? I went looking and you weren’t there?”

It was time for my sweet revenge. If I would have bitten the bait, this person would have made 50 per cent of the entry fee I paid. Though I didn’t go inside the disco, I told him: “I went inside the disco to check it out. Had a drink but didn’t quite like the place.” And I hoped that he got worried about losing his commission.

Briyani , originally introduced by the Mughal in North India, now it is popular all over India

Food items native to North India were enriched through Mughal influence and new dishes were created. These include various rice dishes (among the rice dishes, biryani is very popular all over India), marinated meat dishes, desserts (burfi, halwa, jalebi), sweetened drinks (kheer, lassi), and kulfi ice cream. It was the Mughals that introduced eating betel leaves to refresh the palate and to aid digestion. The Muslims influenced both substance and style in overall Indian cuisine.

In the North, farmers predominantly grow wheat, so naturally they have a variety of food made with wheat. Among those are flatbreads (chapati, naan, roti, paratha), which are very popular and are cooked in a Tandoor oven. A Tandoor oven is a clay oven which has burning charcoal at the bottom to produce high heat to the surface. The flatbreads’ dough sticks at the surface of the Tandoor oven, until it is cooked. The Tandoor food introduced by the Mughals is now popular all over the world. Some of the popular foods prepared in a Tandoor oven are Tandoori chicken, chicken tikka, and kalmi kabab.

In North India people eat vegetarian food- they eat varieties of dried beans, lentils and pulses as they are rich in protein, foregoing the protein from meat. Another important North Indian cooking tradition is the use of mustard oil and ghee (clarified butter) that are high in fat and are used for frying purposes.

Weather it is vegetarian or non-vegetarian cooking, in this part of India you will see the Mughal influence in their cooking and eating. The Mughal cooking that started in North India is now spread all over India giving unique blend of taste and style to Indian culinary.